Frequently Asked Questions
Everything you need to know about working with Sweet Little Crumb (and a few things you didn’t know you needed to know, but probably do).
Who is behind Sweet Little Crumb?
That would be me, Natalie Skiller. I’m a cosmetic formulator with several years experience, based in Queensland, Australia. I hold a Diploma of Personal Care Science from the Institute of Personal Care Science, an advanced skincare diploma and several industry short courses. I’m a member of both the ASCC and IFSCC. I also have a background in education, which is probably why I can’t give you a formula without also explaining why it works.
When you work with Sweet Little Crumb, you work directly with me. There’s no account manager filtering your questions or a junior reformulating your product behind the scenes. You get the formulator, the whole formulator, and nothing but the formulator.
Where are you based?
Brighton, Queensland, Australia (the one with the humidity, not the one with the pebble beach). I work from my own workshop and lab here, but I work with clients all over the world.
Do you work with international clients?
Absolutely. A good chunk of my client base is international. Pricing for international clients is in USD, and I have regulatory knowledge spanning Australian, EU, UK, and Canadian frameworks (with other regions available on request). Time zones can be a bit fun to navigate, but we make it work.
What services do you offer?
Quite a lot, actually. The full list includes Custom Formulation Development, Reverse Engineering, Formulation Review, Reformulation (theoretical), Label Compliance, Claims Compliance Support, Stability Testing, Project Management, Stock Formulations, General Consultancy, Formulation Troubleshooting, Education Consultancy, Tutoring, Educational Material Development, Workshops, and a Q&A Service (Ask the Formulator).
If you’re not sure which one you need (and honestly, a lot of people aren’t at first), reach out and I’ll help you figure it out before you commit to anything. I’d genuinely rather steer you toward the right service than have you purchase something that doesn’t fit.
What’s the difference between a Formulation Review, a Reformulation, and Custom Development?
This is the question I get asked most, so let me break it down properly.
Formulation Review ($500 standard, $800 complex) is a theoretical assessment of a formula you already have. I look at what you’ve got, identify potential issues (stability, compatibility, regulatory red flags, ingredient interactions, that sort of thing), and give you a written report with recommendations. I don’t change the formula or give you a new one. Think of it as a professional health check for your formulation.
Reformulation ($1,250 basic, $1,500 complex) is also theoretical (no lab work, no physical samples), but here I actually rewrite your formula on paper. You give me your existing formula and a brief explaining what you want changed, and I deliver a reformulated version as a document. You’re responsible for all the lab work, testing, and manufacturing from that point. Quick note: tweaks aren’t included with this service and cost $300 each.
Custom Formulation Development (from $2,950 standard, from $3,450 for cosmeceutical/organic/SPF) is the full hands-on service. I take your product concept, develop it from scratch in the workshop, send you physical samples (up to three rounds), run preliminary stability testing, and hand over a complete manufacturing-ready formula. This is for people who want someone to actually make the thing, test it, tweak it, and deliver a finished formula.
The quick version: Review = I assess what you have. Reformulation = I rewrite it on paper. Custom Development = I build it from the ground up in the lab.
| Review (Theoretical) | Reformulation (Theoretical) | Custom Development | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Written review of your formula | Yes | No | Yes (during development) |
| Formula document | No | Yes (theoretical) | Yes |
| Physical samples | No | No | Yes (up to 3 rounds) |
| Lab work / bench testing | No | No | Yes |
| Preliminary stability testing | No | No | Yes (3-week) |
| Tweaks included | N/A | No ($300 per tweak) | Up to 3 included |
| Best for… | Quick check before you commit | You have a formula that needs professional optimisation (no lab work needed) | You want someone to develop, make, and test the product for you |
What’s a “tweak”?
A tweak is a small adjustment to an existing formula. Think minor percentage changes to an ingredient, swapping one ingredient for a functionally equivalent alternative at the same percentage, small texture or viscosity adjustments, or adding/removing a single ingredient at a low concentration (like a botanical extract at 0.01–0.5%).
What’s not a tweak: changing the emulsification system, switching product categories entirely (turning a lotion into a gel, for example), overhauling the preservation system, adding actives that need pH adjustment, or anything that basically means starting over. Those are new projects.
Custom Development includes up to three tweaks. After that (or for Reformulation, which doesn’t include any), tweaks are $300 each. There’s also a three-tweak bundle for $750 if you know you’ll need a few rounds.
Do you manufacture products?
No. Sweet Little Crumb is a formulation consultancy, not a manufacturer. For Custom Development and Reverse Engineering, I develop formulas and provide physical samples in the workshop, but large-scale manufacturing is your responsibility to arrange. If you need help communicating with your manufacturer, that’s what the Project Management add-on is for (from $600 for simple projects, from $1,200 for complex ones).
What do you mean by “theoretical” service?
Several services (Formulation Review, Reformulation, General Consultancy) are theoretical, meaning they’re based on my professional knowledge, scientific literature, ingredient data, and practical experience. They haven’t been physically made or tested in a lab unless explicitly stated.
A theoretical formulation is a professionally informed starting point (a very good one, based on years of formulating). But it still requires physical testing, optimisation, and verification by you or your manufacturer before it’s production-ready. Cosmetic formulation involves a lot of variables (raw material batch variation, water quality, environmental conditions during manufacturing), and no amount of theoretical work can account for all of them.
If you want a formula that’s been physically developed, tested, and iterated on the bench, Custom Formulation Development is what you’re after.
How much do your services cost?
Here’s the quick reference (all prices in USD for international clients, AUD for Australian-based clients, transaction fees additional):
| Service | Price |
|---|---|
| Custom Formulation Development (Standard) | From $2,950 + shipping |
| Custom Formulation Development (Cosmeceutical / SPF / Organic) | From $3,450 + shipping |
| Reverse Engineering (Standard) | From $2,450 + shipping |
| Reverse Engineering (Cosmeceutical / SPF / Organic) | From $2,950 + shipping |
| Formulation Review | $500 standard / $800 complex |
| Reformulation (Theoretical) | $1,250 basic / $1,500 complex |
| Tweak (add-on) | $300 each / $750 × 3 bundle |
| Label Compliance | $300 per region |
| Claims Compliance Support | $800 |
| Stability Testing (Accelerated, 9 months) | $1,800 |
| Stability Testing Real-Time Extension | +$800 |
| Project Management (Simple) | From $600 |
| Project Management (Complex) | From $1,200 (via quote) |
| Stock Formulations (DIY) | $50–$800 |
| Stock Formulations (Brand Licensing) | $1,200–$2,450 |
| General Consultancy | $180/hr |
| Formulation Troubleshooting | $230/hr |
| Education Consultancy | $250/hr |
| Educational Material Development | From $500/subject |
| Q&A Simple Question | $30 |
| Q&A Complex Question | $95 |
| Tutoring (IPCS Students) | $50/hr |
| Tutoring (Non-IPCS Students) | $80/hr |
| Tutoring (Group Sessions) | $150/hr |
Prices are subject to change. You’ll always receive a quote with the total (including any payment method surcharges) before you commit to anything.
What payment methods do you accept?
PayPal, Wise, WooCommerce/Stripe (credit card), and bank deposit/PayID. Each has different surcharges:
PayPal adds a 4.5% surcharge (I know, it’s steep, and your 4.5% only covers some of the loss I make using PayPal, not all of it). Wise adds 2.1%. WooCommerce/Stripe calculates automatically. Bank deposit/PayID has no surcharges from my end (though your bank may charge its own fees).
You’re responsible for all transaction costs, including international transfer fees and currency conversion. I’ll give you a quote with the full total based on your chosen payment method before you pay anything.
When is payment due?
For most services, payment is required in full before work begins. For Custom Development and Reverse Engineering (the physical development services), it works on a staged payment structure: 50% deposit before work commences, an additional 25% when samples are nearing completion, and the final 25% upon formula approval or after three tweaks.
What currency do you charge in?
USD for international clients, AUD for Australian-based clients (unless something different is agreed in writing on your quote).
Who owns the formula?
You do. Upon full payment, you receive complete ownership of the final approved formulation (the formula, the manufacturing method, and all associated documentation). No ongoing royalties, no licensing fees, no strings attached.
I retain ownership of all preliminary work, development concepts, and unapproved formulations (the stuff that didn’t make the cut). I also retain the right to use general techniques and knowledge gained during the project (because I can’t un-learn how to formulate), but I will not replicate your exact formulation for other clients.
For stock formulations, it’s a bit different. I retain intellectual property rights in all stock formulations. A DIY purchase gives you personal use rights. A brand licence gives you commercial usage rights as specified in the licence terms.
Is my information kept confidential?
Yes. All client information is treated as confidential under a Non-Disclosure Agreement (NDA). I have separate NDAs for theoretical services and physical development services, and both include provisions for confidentiality obligations, non-disclosure, non-use, and data protection.
The NDA runs for five years from signing, and the confidentiality obligations survive for 10 years after termination. Your formulation data, ingredient lists, business strategies, supplier relationships, and everything else you share with me stays between us.
I may reference general client relationships for portfolio purposes (like mentioning that I’ve worked on a particular product type), but I won’t identify you, your brand, or your formulation unless you’ve given me specific written permission to do so.
How long does Custom Formulation Development take?
Typically 2–3 months for straightforward products, though it can stretch to 2–6 months depending on product complexity, ingredient availability, shipping times (especially for international clients sending benchmark products or speciality ingredients), and how quickly feedback and decisions happen at your end. The timeline begins once the contract is signed and the deposit is received.
What do I need to provide for Custom Development?
You’ll need to complete all required documentation and provide a clear product brief (target market, desired texture, key claims, ingredient restrictions). You’ll also need to purchase and post the benchmark product (if applicable), any proposed packaging, and any specialist ingredients you want used. If you want fragrance in your samples, you source and provide the essential oil or fragrance oil blend yourself.
Before I start, you’ll need to source your ingredients and suppliers and confirm ingredient availability with your chosen manufacturer or supplier. This is your responsibility, and it’s really important to do it before development begins (because there’s no point building a formula around an ingredient your manufacturer can’t get).
What stability testing is included?
Custom Development includes preliminary 3-week stability testing (cycling between −10°C, ambient temperature, and RT+10°C across six cycles). This gives early confidence in the formula’s stability, but it’s not a replacement for comprehensive long-term stability testing.
If you need more thorough testing, the Stability Testing add-on ($1,800) covers accelerated testing over nine months with five checkpoints. There’s also a real-time extension (+$800) that adds three additional checkpoints over 30 months. You’ll still need to arrange Preservative Efficacy Testing (PET) and safety assessments separately (I can help coordinate these at additional cost).
What happens after I receive my formula?
Once you have your final approved formula, it’s yours. You take it, arrange your own manufacturing and production, conduct any additional testing you need (full stability, PET, safety assessment, microbiological testing), and ensure compliance with all applicable regulations in your target markets. I am not involved from that point (unless you’ve engaged Project Management or ongoing consultancy, which are separate services).
What regions do you cover for label compliance?
I can review labels for Australia, the EU, Canada, the UK, India, South Africa, Brazil, the US, and other regions on request. Each region is a separate charge ($300 per region) because labelling requirements vary significantly between jurisdictions (sometimes dramatically so).
What’s the difference between Label Compliance and Claims Compliance?
Label Compliance ($300 per region) reviews your product labels for regulatory correctness in a specific market. That means INCI ingredient listing, warning statements, mandatory declarations, and the general labelling requirements for that jurisdiction.
Claims Compliance Support ($800) is about your marketing language. It reviews your proposed product claims and helps you communicate benefits in a way that’s both compelling and compliant. I assess claims based on ingredient research, scientific literature, and regulatory guidelines (this is a non-testing service, meaning I don’t conduct any product testing as part of it).
They’re complementary services, but they cover different things. You can get one without the other, or both.
What are stock formulations?
These are pre-developed, ready-made formulations available for immediate digital download. They come with detailed formulation documentation (ingredient list, manufacturing method, supplier suggestions). They’re sold as-is, without customisation.
Can I sell products made from stock formulations?
It depends on which licence you purchase. The DIY Range ($50–$800) is for personal use only (making products for yourself, gifts, that sort of thing). If you want to sell commercially, you need a Brand Licence ($1,200–$2,450), which provides commercial usage rights as specified in the licence terms.
Either way, you’re responsible for sourcing all ingredients, making the product (or arranging manufacturing), conducting all testing (stability, PET, safety assessment), and ensuring compliance with regulations in your target markets. Formulation performance can vary based on ingredient sourcing, equipment, and operator skill, so keep that in mind.
Can I get support with a stock formulation?
Stock formulations don’t include consultancy, troubleshooting, or customisation. If you run into issues or have questions, those are available as separate services (General Consultancy at $180/hr, Formulation Troubleshooting at $230/hr, or Q&A from $30 per question).
What education services do you offer?
Quite a few, and they’re all structured around the idea that learning cosmetic science should be genuinely enjoyable (and accessible, even when the chemistry gets complicated).
Q&A Service (Ask the Formulator) is for one-off questions. Simple questions are $30, complex ones are $95. You get a personalised, science-based response within 48–72 hours (depending on complexity), delivered via email or voice note (your preference). Responses come with educational context, not just a “do this” instruction, so you actually learn something along the way.
Tutoring is one-on-one or small group virtual sessions. $50/hr for IPCS students, $80/hr for non-IPCS students, and $150/hr for group sessions. I adapt my teaching methods for different learning styles and energy management needs (particularly valuable for neurodivergent learners who might struggle with conventional approaches). Sessions include lesson notes and follow-up resources.
Education-Focused Consultancy ($250/hr, educational material development from $500/subject) covers custom training for teams and organisations (developing educational materials, SOPs, training in-house staff, running workshops for retail teams).
Do you offer any free resources?
I run the This Formulating Life blog and I’m active in the Making Skincare community. There’s educational content across Instagram, Facebook, and (eventually) YouTube. If you want to get a feel for how I teach before committing to a paid service, that’s a good place to start.
Can I get a refund?
The short answer: if I don’t deliver what I promised, I’ll make it right. That’s not just good business practice, it’s also the law under Australian Consumer Law (ACL).
The longer answer depends on the type of service:
Professional services (formulation development, consulting, reviews, regulatory work): If you cancel before work starts, a 25% cancellation fee applies (to cover the administrative time already spent setting up your project). Once work has started, cancellations aren’t eligible for a refund because those hours and expertise have been invested.
Stock formulations (digital products): No change-of-mind refunds after digital delivery (once you’ve received the file, you’ve received the product). If the file is corrupted or doesn’t match the product listing, contact me and I’ll fix it.
Education services: Tutoring and consultancy sessions can be cancelled with 24+ hours’ notice at no charge. Less than 24 hours may incur 50%. Less than four hours (or a no-show) incurs the full fee. Q&A is non-refundable once submitted.
If something goes wrong: Email me at [email protected]. I’d genuinely rather work through any issues directly than have things escalate. I’ll acknowledge your request within two business days and we’ll sort it out.
Quick note: “no refunds” for completed work doesn’t override your rights under Australian Consumer Law. If a consumer guarantee hasn’t been met, you’re entitled to a remedy regardless.
How do I get started?
The easiest thing is to reach out. If you know which service you want, you can purchase directly through the website. If you’re not sure (totally fine, most people aren’t at first), email me at [email protected] and I’ll help you figure out the right fit.
For most services, the process looks something like this: you contact me with your project details, I confirm the scope and pricing, you complete the required documentation (forms, product briefs, intake forms), payment is arranged, and then I get to work.
What if I’m not sure which service I need?
Get in touch. Seriously. I’d rather spend a few minutes helping you choose the right service than have you buy something that doesn’t fit. You can email me at [email protected] or give me a call on +61 472 624 927.
